I was swimming at big beach in Makena today. We had nice rollers coming in, probably from the two tropical storms that passed south of us this last week. I would be knee deep in water just before the wave, then look up and see the crest of the wave high above me. I estimate the larger sets were between 6 and 10 feet. It was like an elevator ride – if you were out far enough. Otherwise it was a washing machine!
There were tons of boggie-boarders on the beach today. They would run toward the ocean, throw the board out in front of them then jump/stand on it and surf ‘into’ the waves. As they hit an incoming wave they would do tricks: twirling, u-turns and surf back in and sometimes would do flips into the air. One guy got about 8 feet of air on a larger wave – very impressive.
Of course, if you are going swimming like I was, that hard part was timing the sets so that you enter or leave without getting into the ‘wash machine’ – tumbling over and over. I was out swimming and back sitting in my beach chair 3 or 4 times today, so I ran that gauntlet successfully a number of times …. except for the last one …
Like a good girl, I did my ‘due diligence’ – watched the sets, waited for the lull, and headed out of the water to the beach. I got up to only knee deep when the boggie-boarders on shore started running like crazy into the surf and the other people on shore were wide eyed and pointing to something behind me.
At the same time, the water from the last huge set was now rushing out to the ocean from the beach. I could not move against all that water going out. Then, all of a sudden, I was on ‘dry’ sand…. Then it got dark and I noticed water falling from the sky IN FRONT OF ME – I was in a TUBE.
Up/Down, Back/Front, Left/Right – these normal directions we take for granted MERGED into oneness – and then became totally irrelevant! Split seconds later I am standing in the same spot, on dry sand again, facing the beach like I was just moments before …. and standing! I shook out my wet hair and continued my walk up the beach to my chair like nothing happened ….!!
It was a very uncomfortable ride home. I took my shower right away when I got home (standard procedure at the Kahale residence), and that’s when I figured out what was so uncomfortable. Now, sand in a bikini is not nice – not at all. However, this was not your everyday ordinary sand over in Makena — nope. It’s coral sand. Imagine taking billions of sea shells and crunching them up until they are sand sized. They are still the sharp sea shells you know of if you break them up a little – only now they are even tinier! The effect is that once you get them under something that is tight against your skin (bra band, straps, etc) they tend to ’embed’ themselves in one’s skin. In other words – they didn’t just wash away in the shower – they had to be SCRUBBED off —— grrrrrr. I’m also positive it’s going to take a number of days/showers before I’m finally free from them.
Did I mention WHERE these were embedded? I have to work up at the summit tomorrow and this week. Let’s just say I’ll have some reminders of my wonderful swim in Makena ……
With Aloha (watch those waves),